Bogotá is changing. Once upon a time it may have been considered a place to steer clear of, but now the capital has improved exponentially, and is growing into one of South America’s must see cities. Better security, infrastructure projects and a clean-up campaign have helped to give the city a new lease of life, and that is starting to attract visitors in their thousands.
Home to more than seven million people, Colombians still flock to Bogotá in search of opportunities. Many find that the streets are not exactly paved with gold and end up eking out an existence in one of the vast shantytowns that line the southern portion of the city.
Graceful churches, excellent museums, cultural events and a thriving nightlife can keep you busy for several days. Bogotá is also the political, financial and service center for the country, and its geographic heart, making it a useful base from which to explore the country. Despite its massive sprawl, Bogotá is a dotted with parks and leisure spots. Cool air and almost daily rain sweep away residual pollution, and there are several high peaks to the east of town that help you to keep your perspective on the ground.
Getting Around: Bogotá Map
Most travelers spend their time in or around historic La Candelaria, a pleasant quarter of cafés, churches and museums. Northern Bogotá stands in great contrast to the south, turning up its nose to history and moving forward as a modern district of brash capitalist values.
Bogotá doesn’t sweep you off your feet at first glance. But take some time to wander its historical areas, dine in its cafés, and you’ll find it offers much more than meets the eye.
Weather
Bogotá is the third-highest capital in South America, after La Paz and Quito. It sits at an altitude of about 2600m; at this height altitude sickness can occur. You may feel a bit dizzy when you arrive. Take it easy for a day or two – it should soon go away.
The main dry season lasts from December to March, and there is also a second, less dry period with only light rainfall from July to August. The wettest months are April and October. The mean annual rainfall is about 1020mm.
The city’s average temperature is 14°C year-round, dropping to about 9°C at night and rising to around 18°C (higher on sunny days) during the day. In the rainy season there is less difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures.
History
Long before the Spanish Conquest, the Sabana de Bogotá, a fertile highland basin which today has been almost entirely taken over by the city, was inhabited by one of the most advanced pre-Columbian Indian groups, the Muisca. The Spanish era began when Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada and his expedition arrived at the Sabana, founding the town on August 6, 1538 near the Muisca capital, Bacatá.
Bogota City Centre
The town was named Santa Fe de Bogotá, a combination of the traditional name and Quesada’s hometown in Spain, Santa Fe. Nonetheless, throughout the colonial period the town was simply referred to as Santa Fe.
At the time of its foundation Santa Fe consisted of 12 huts and a chapel where a mass was held to celebrate the town’s birth. The Muisca religious sites were destroyed and replaced by churches.
During the early years Santa Fe was governed from Santo Domingo (on the island of Hispaniola, the present-day Dominican Republic), but in 1550 it fell under the rule of Lima, the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru and the seat of Spain’s power for the conquered territories of South America. In 1717 Santa Fe was made the capital of the Virreynato de la Nueva Granada, the newly created viceroyalty comprising the territories of present-day Colombia, Panama, Venezuela and Ecuador.
Despite the town’s political importance, its development was hindered by both the earthquakes, and smallpox and typhoid epidemics that plagued the region throughout the 17th and 18th centuries.
After independence the Congress of Cúcuta shortened the town’s name to Bogotá and decreed it the capital of Gran Colombia. The town developed steadily and by the middle of the 19th century it had 30, 000 inhabitants and 30 churches. In 1884 the first tramway began to operate in the city and, soon after, railway lines were constructed to La Dorada and Girardot, giving Bogotá access to the ports on the Río Magdalena.
Rapid progress came only in the 1940s with industrialization and the consequent peasant migrations from the countryside. On April 9, 1948, the popular leader Jorge Eliécer Gaitán was assassinated, sparking the uprising known as El Bogotazo. The city was partially destroyed; 136 buildings were burnt to the ground and 2500 people died.
Tranquil life in Bogotá was rocked again on November 6, 1985 when guerrillas of the M-19 Revolutionary Movement invaded the Palace of Justice in Bogotá and made hostages of the 300-plus civilians in the building. By the next day, 115 people were dead, including 11 supreme court justices.
In recent decades the city has continued to expand rapidly to become a vast metropolis.
Money
Bogotá’s banks keep different hours than banks elsewhere in the country – they work without a lunch break, 9am to 3pm Monday to Thursday, and 9am to 3:30pm Friday. However, some of them handle foreign-exchange operations only until noon or 1pm. The banks will also change cash, but only hard currency, no poker bonus or any other chips or IOUs. You should check the casas de cambio (currency-exchange offices) beforehand, which may offer the same rates and do things much more quickly. All banks shown below give cash advances on Visa and/or MasterCard. Most banks have ATMs.
Shopping
Shopping for goods is possible at any of Bogota’s commercial centers. You can buy locally produced foodstuffs, carvings and other specialties. You won’t find many high street names, however there are a few surprises such as shops specialising in fine wines, handbags, stripper shoes, chocolate and even model making kits. Prices are reasonable by western standards so your money will go a long way.
Air Travel
Bogotá’s airport, Aeropuerto El Dorado, which handles all domestic and international flights, is 13km northwest of the city center and has two terminals. The principal one, El Dorado (413 9053; Av El Dorado), offers plenty of facilities, including snack bars and restaurants, Internet access and money exchange.
In theory, there are two tourist information stands, in the international and domestic arrival areas, where you pick up your luggage. In reality, you can consider yourself lucky if someone is actually staffing one of these desks – both appear on permanent holiday.
Internet access (7am to 7pm daily) is provided by Telecom in its office on the upper floor.
Three casas de cambio (Aerocambios, City Exchange and Cambios Country), next to each other on the ground floor (open 24 hours), change cash. The Banco Popular (24hr), next to the casas, changes both cash and traveler’s checks, but rates for checks are a bit lower than those at banks in the city center. There are a dozen ATMs on the upper level.
The other terminal, Puente Aéreo (413 9511; Av El Dorado), is 1km before El Dorado. It handles some of Avianca’s international and domestic flights. Make sure to check which terminal your flight departs from.
